The $cent of a Rose

Geraniol, Citronellol, and Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol are the fundamental aromachemicals that form the basis of a classic rose scent. By adjusting the proportions of these components and incorporating additional elements such as Eugenol, which imparts a subtle spiciness, Phenyl Ethyl Acetate for a honeyed nuance, or Peru Balsam for a balsamic undertone, one can craft a wide array of rose profiles. These variations allow for the recreation of virtually any species of rose. Yet, many perfumers opt for synthetic alternatives over natural rose oil, primarily due to considerations of cost and sustainability.

One illustrious example of natural rose oil is Rose de Mai, also known as the May Rose, which is famously used in Chanel No. 5. Exclusively cultivated for Chanel in Grasse, France, this rose yields an oil that is both precious and scarce. To produce a single pound of Rose de Mai oil, approximately 20,000 pounds of roses—equivalent to 4 million blossoms—are required, making the oil valued at around $5,000 USD per pound. For a recreation of Chanel No. 5 (based on a 1980 formula), just 0.3 milliliters of Rose de Mai oil would be needed for 100 milliliters of perfume. Although this quantity might appear minimal, it remains roughly ten times more expensive than many other fragrance materials.

The sheer volume of roses necessary to produce even a modest amount of rose oil is both staggering and potentially wasteful. This inefficiency is why many perfumers choose to either develop their own synthetic versions or purchase ready-made synthetics from suppliers, often at a fraction of the cost of natural rose oil.